Pack artwork by covering the surface with glassine or acid-free paper, protecting the corners, building a rigid cardboard sandwich around it, then placing it upright in a picture box with sufficient padding on every side. Transport it standing on its edge, never flat. That combination is what stops the three most common causes of moving damage: bare surfaces rubbing against packing materials, weak corners taking the impact, and pieces stacked flat under weight they were never built to carry.
Before you do anything else, get two things in the house:
- Glassine or acid-free packing paper — the first layer against any painted or printed surface.
- A picture or mirror box sized to the piece, with padding room built in.
If you would rather not handle it yourself, Westlondonremoval offers insured professional packing for exactly this kind of job.
Key Takeaways
Artwork survives a house move when the surface is protected first, the corners second, and the piece travels upright the whole way through.
| Point | Details |
|---|---|
| Surface layer first | Use glassine or acid-free paper directly on the artwork, never newspaper or wax paper. |
| Build a rigid shell | Corner protectors plus a cardboard sandwich absorb impact before it reaches the piece. |
| Pad the box properly | Leave three to four inches of padding on every side inside the picture or mirror box. |
| Load upright, never flat | Stand boxes on edge and never stack anything on top during transport. |
| Call in the professionals for high-risk moves | Westlondonremoval offers insured packing and specialist handling for oversized, valuable or multi-stop moves. |
Table of Contents
- Essential supplies for artwork packing for moving
- How do you pack a painting step by step?
- What about oversized, valuable or awkward pieces?
- How should artwork be loaded into the van?
- Do you need to document and insure artwork before moving?
- Frequently asked questions
- Sources
Essential supplies for artwork packing for moving
Getting artwork packing for moving right starts with buying the correct materials, not the ones already sitting in your garage. Each item on this list solves a specific damage risk.
- Glassine or acid-free packing paper — sits directly against the painted or printed surface without reacting with pigment or varnish.
- Small-bubble bubble wrap, bubbles facing out — cushions impact without pressing dimples into oil paint or delicate texture.
- Corrugated cardboard — builds the rigid “sandwich” that spreads pressure away from the artwork itself.
- Picture or mirror boxes — purpose-built with flat, narrow proportions that stop pieces shifting or bending.
- Foam or cardboard corner protectors — frame corners take the first hit in almost every drop or knock.
- Painter’s tape and masking tape — low-tack, residue-free, safe near frames and glass.
- Moving blankets — extra cushioning for oversized or awkwardly shaped pieces in transit.
Skip newspaper, polystyrene packing peanuts, wax paper, and tissue paper pressed straight onto the surface. Newspaper ink can transfer permanently onto a painted surface, styrofoam peanuts leave dimple marks under pressure, and wax or tissue paper can yellow certain varnishes over time.
Pro Tip: If you can’t find a picture box in the exact size you need, ask your supplier about telescoping boxes — two boxes that slide together to extend the length, which solves most oversized framing problems without a custom order.
Most DIY stores and dedicated packing suppliers stock all of this. Specialist retailers carry glassine and picture boxes in bulk if you’re packing more than a couple of pieces, and our guide to the role of moving boxes explains how box choice affects everything else on this list.
How do you pack a painting step by step?
Packing paintings for relocation follows the same core sequence whether the piece is a framed print or an unstretched canvas. Work through it in order and don’t skip the surface layer, even for pieces that look robust.
- Prepare first. Photograph the piece, note its dimensions, and clear a flat, clean work surface. Enlist a second pair of hands for anything over about a metre wide.
- Protect the surface. Lay glassine or acid-free paper directly over the front. If the piece is under glass, tape a painter’s tape “X” across the front so any shattered glass stays in place rather than scattering across the canvas.
- Add corner protectors. Slide foam or cardboard corners onto all four corners of the frame before anything else touches them.
- Build the cardboard sandwich. Cut two pieces of corrugated cardboard slightly larger than the artwork and tape them together around the edges, with the protected piece sandwiched inside. This rigid shell absorbs impact before it reaches the artwork, which matters more than any single wrap layer. Tape only the cardboard edges, never the artwork itself.
- Wrap in bubble wrap. Use small-bubble wrap with the bubbles facing outward, and avoid pressing it directly onto oil paint, pastel, or heavily textured canvas.
- Box it upright. Slide the wrapped piece into a picture or mirror box, leaving three to four inches of padding space on every side, then fill any remaining gaps with scrunched packing paper or foam offcuts. Mover guides consistently point to surface protection, box choice, and upright positioning as the three points where most packing jobs go wrong.
- Seal and label. Mark the box “THIS SIDE UP” and “FRAGILE” on every visible face, and attach an inventory tag referencing your photo record.
If you’d rather hand this whole sequence to someone else, our fragile item packing service follows the same protocol on-site.
What about oversized, valuable or awkward pieces?
Standard picture boxes run out of road quickly once you’re dealing with an oversized mirror, a wide triptych, or a genuinely awkward shape like a wall-mounted sculpture. A few workarounds cover most of these cases:
- Telescope two picture boxes together or build a wider cardboard sandwich using multiple sheets taped end to end.
- Order a custom wooden crate once a piece exceeds roughly one metre in any dimension, or carries real financial or sentimental value. Crates matter more for long-distance moves, where temperature swings inside a lorry are harder to control over several days.
- Move it in your own car if it’s genuinely irreplaceable. That way you control the handling and the climate exposure from door to door, rather than trusting either to a van full of other people’s boxes.
If a painting was finished within the last few weeks, treat it as fragile in a different way. Oil paint can take months to fully cure, and wrapping it too early risks the surface sticking to whatever touches it.
For anything in this category, a specialist art handler or our specialist moves service is worth the conversation before moving day, not after.
How should artwork be loaded into the van?
Position matters as much as packing. Load every framed piece upright on its long edge, never flat and never underneath anything else.
- Stand boxes on edge, wedged between heavier furniture so they can’t tip or slide during the drive.
- Never stack anything on top of a picture box, even briefly. Standing upright lets the piece absorb road vibration; lying flat means it takes the full weight of whatever’s stacked on it.
- Use moving blankets and straps to lock pieces in place, then give the load a gentle push to check nothing shifts before closing the doors.
- For anything you’d genuinely be gutted to lose, keep it in your own car rather than the van. You control the ride, the temperature, and who touches it.
Museum transport practice backs this up directly: pieces absorb shock far better standing upright than lying flat, where crushing weight becomes the main risk.
Do you need to document and insure artwork before moving?
Photograph every piece from the front, the back, and close-up on any existing damage, and note dimensions, artist, and purchase details somewhere separate from the packed box. That record is what actually gets a claim paid if something goes wrong.
- Check your home insurance policy and your mover’s declared-value limit; standard cover is often lower than people assume for higher-value pieces.
- For anything above that threshold, arrange declared-value coverage or specialist art insurance and keep receipts or appraisals on file.
- Slip a written condition note inside the box, never taped to the artwork itself, and keep your inventory and contact details with you rather than in the van.
When professional packing makes more sense
Oversized canvases, genuine antiques, moves with multiple stops, or a flat with a tight, winding staircase all push the risk higher than a weekend DIY job can comfortably absorb. Westlondonremoval’s insured crews handle exactly these situations daily, with same-day availability when notice is short and a track record of over 1,000 satisfied clients behind every job.
Let Westlondonremoval handle the packing for you
If a home-packed box still worries you, Westlondonremoval gives you a fixed, transparent quote instead of a guessing game over what could go wrong in transit. Our team handles professional packing, specialist moves for pianos and antiques, insured transport, and man-and-van options for smaller jobs, all with the same crews and same-day availability across West London.
Put together a short inventory of what needs packing, including rough sizes and anything particularly valuable, and send it through when you request a quote for your Chiswick removals. That one list is usually all we need to give you an accurate price before the day itself.
Frequently asked questions
What’s the safest way to pack a framed painting for moving?
Cover the surface with glassine, fit corner protectors, build a cardboard sandwich around the piece, wrap it in small-bubble wrap, and box it upright with three to four inches of padding on every side.
Can I use bubble wrap directly on a painted canvas?
Not against the paint itself. Bubble wrap can leave dimple marks on delicate or textured surfaces, so always place glassine or acid-free paper between the wrap and the artwork.
How do I pack a sculpture or three-dimensional piece?
Wrap protruding elements individually with padding before boxing, brace the base so it can’t shift, and use a snug-fitting box rather than one with excess empty space.
Should artwork travel in the moving van or my own car?
Standard framed pieces travel fine in a well-loaded van, upright and secured. Anything irreplaceable or particularly high in value is safer in your own car, where you control handling and temperature.
Do I need special insurance for artwork during a move?
Check your mover’s declared-value limit and your home policy first; for higher-value pieces, arrange specialist art insurance or declared-value coverage and keep appraisals and receipts on hand.
Sources
- Packing tissue (Big Yellow Box Shop)
- Telescopic picture boxes (Art Packaging)
- 7 Steps for Packing Paintings & Artwork for Moving (Extra Space Storage)
- How to pack paintings for moving: a step-by-step guide (D and G Flooring)
Recommended
- How to pack fragile items: essential steps for moving and shipping – West London Removal
- Prepare for moving day checklist: West London guide – West London Removal
- The role of moving boxes explained for every move – West London Removal
- How to move without professional removers: a practical guide – West London Removal
